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December 09, 2011



The EGR is pretty easy to get to on that truck, and also pretty easy to clean. Often what happens is it just gets carboned up enough that the flow is affected. The gasket is a buck, the bottom end has a compression fitting. Get the compression fitting out FIRST, then take out the two bolts. A little bit of brakekleen or MAP sensor spray will clean it out, and a vacuum cleaner and bottle brush to the ports/tubes it connects to.

the code itself is thrown by the DPFE sensor, which is a little plastic sensor which measures the diff. pressure between the intake manifold and the exhaust. When the EMS tells the EGR to open, the DPFE sensor reads the differential pressure within X seconds, and if it doesn't read within nominal values it returns a code. There are issues with some of the OEM dpfe sensors, and even aftermarket ones can fail prematurely.

best of luck, boss!


When we vapor locked our old Ford woody in the Cal Central Valley, my Dad just cut a grapefruit in half and held one piece up against the the glass sediment bowl on the bottom of the pump. I guess all that juice and pulp absorbed enough heat that the fuel vapor re-condensed and we were on our way. Anytime we headed for Lodi, Turlock or any of those parts of the state during the summer, Dad always carried a couple of grapefruit. Don't ever remember bein' stuck for very long.

Gerry N,

This sounds suspiciously like the old teck-nee-kew of dribbling a pipe tobacco canful of transmission fluid into the carb while holding the foot feed down. That laid a smoke screen of epic proportions across the street and cleaned the crap out of the valve seats on my much loved '50 Ford flathead 8 with three on the tree 'n a fifth under the seat. I always followed with an oil change and a tankful of 100 octane hi-test, remember that?. When I drained the oil after this treatment it was always full of bits of carbon and other crap. I loved that ol' car and cried when I had to sell it. It was still running fine when the odometer went south in about '67, I sold it in '70. Sometimes I wish I still had it.


"Fitty Foad", yeah, I remember those. A classmate in Geology 201 had one, so we took his vehicle on the required Field Trip, a caravan which included over 50 vehicles, and trekked all over the back roads of Oregon, with stops at remarkable geologic formations, and camping under the stars over two nights. His Foad had a distressing tendency to vapor-lock, and no one on the trip seemed to have the answer, but then I sacrificed my bath-towel, tore it into strips, wrapped the fuel pump and kept it wet from my Desert Water Bag. My Dad, an old desert rat, had told me of that solution, which he had to use on his Stutz Roadster out in the same country during the CCC days (he was a Camp Doctor). Yep, tales of make-do...

You must have heard of Ed's Red bore cleaner? I'm just wondering if it might be the stuff to trickle in, but first I'd have to find out if the liquid or vapors are going to encounter any plastic parts...


i have sea-foamed a few cars, it does clean them out, and there is a few ways of doing it.

1> just before next oil change, put in a bottle and let it run for about 1 tank of gas.(cleans out the oiling system)
2> put a bottle in to the fuel tank(when tank near empty at the gas station and fill with good gas at a high volume station(next to freeways will turn over the tanks about once a day(some times more then once a day))(cleans out the fuel system)
3> using one of the vacuum hose (brake booster works great for this) and slowly let it pull in the sea foam. keep in mind this will cause the system to smoke like something is wrong, this is normal. (cleans out the intake side).

After doing it i would replace all the plugs, it does work and i have done this in older ford v8 (351C) with ~125k miles and drove it for another 3 years(100K miles) miss that old work truck. it was a tank!

EDITOR'S NOTE: HOOOAHHH! IT WORKED!!! See update, above.

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