Win: after running up against the Government ban of high-power incandescent light bulbs (I have a 13.5-foot garage ceiling, which has the lighting canopies I have always had 200-watt light bulbs in so as to have the correct intensity down on the floor). Because of the ban, I have to use the !@#%^&*&^%$# compact flourescent bulbs, which can't be installed by means of an extension tool. BUT WAIT, Acme Engineering Commercial Electric has a Bulb Changer that's DESIGNED! (hahahahahahahah) to do this. I bought one at Home Despot. It looks like this in it's packaging:

Don't buy it, it's a Piece of Shit. See that thumbscrew on the changer-head? It is a metal screw in a soft plastic base, and it will NOT tighten the changer head to the extension pole well enough to provide the torque resistance to unscrew the light bulb those 13.5-feet up. It's crap, despite the fact that the packaging AND instructions claim that it can be done.
What to do?
Call a Garagineer, we need to make a single-purpose tool!
Who do you call? Rivrdog, the Garagineer on Duty!
I had, in my tool crib, a Mark One Mod Zero incandescent light bulb changer stout enough to overcome the corroded-in-place aluminum base of the bulb and remove it. I used it and the spent bulb was soon in my garbage cart.
The replacement was not so easy. Since the available )$#%^&^%$#@ Compackt-by-order of-Government Flourescent bulbs (Heil Energy Gauleiter!) are not only fragile, they are weaker in output than the 200-watt incandescent bulb, I had to twin them in the canopy to get the same light-cast on the floor. That called for the use of a twinning-adapter ("Y"-adapter), still available for cheap.
Problem: how to get the Y-adapter, with it's load of two fragile CFL 100-watt-equivalent units, up to the 13.5-foot high canopy, and screw it in with enough force to seat it to good electrical contact.
Solution: is in the back yard, where I have a Box Hedge. I went to the hedge, and eyeballing (Garageineer's Calibrated Eyeballs) the correct diameter, cut a branch with a decent "Y" on it, and went back to the garage, where I fitted it to my old Mark One Mod Zero, Old School Light Bulb Changer, which had a socket of about .70" in it's base (by accident of engineering design). Shimming with Gorilla Tape did the trick to seat the "Y"-stick, with proof against the necessary torque. The principle of two inverted "Y" units forming a snug universal-joint was the trick here. The "Y" of the hedge stick against the "Y" of the twinning-adapter sufficed to both balance (with the aid of a small strip of Gorilla Tape) and hold the twin-CFL setup up to the extension unit, and threading it into the canopy 13.5 feet up. The equipment and it's use:

Project accomplished! Repeat for the second canopy, which still held a good 200-watt incandescent, (reserved now for museum display)...
Win # 2: Back to the TCBBB-94, Tidy Cat Bucket Boom Box 1994 project. It works, but had terrible reception on radio (fine on cassette tape), due to no antenna being installed. In scavenging my boat electronics locker, I came up with a standard "rubber Ducky" car radio antenna, with attaching cable and standard antenna-coupling. I installed it as a breadboard mount, and VOILA!, the TCBBB now has perfect radio reception. I have yet to mount the antenna on the side of the Tidy Cat Bucket, which might require the fabrication of a backing plate, but the music from KMHD, Mount Hood Community College jazz, plays with excellent base response as I blog. 1962, Kiki Hamilton on drums, now playing...
FAIL: Started to install the new Ignition Module in the Honda HR-214-SM mower, and all went swimmingly, until time to set the module-to-magneto gap. Not knowing the correct gap, I relied on the time-tested .018" gap of the end-flaps of the new spark-plug box. I was torquing down the two bolts of the module, very slowly, maybe 1/25th-turn at a time, when I torqued off one of the two bolts in the cylinder body. It was the metric version of a 1/4X20 machine bolt, and it was a soft bolt with no grade markings on the head, so I was using a 1/4" drive Craftsman socket wrench 5" long (10mm socket) with light force, probably no more than 20 foot# at the max, maybe less, but the bolt sheared in the cylinder body. I now have an easy-out job on a small bolt to do. )*UY^#$%^&*!! (Translates as: the God of Mechanics may bend over and kiss my Rosy Red bung-hole!). I will now convert this repair job to a total rebuild of the engine (compression is down to 80#, which is marginal anyway), and let the machine shop deal with getting the sheared bolt out. )(*&^#@$%^&*!!!. This mower may yet wind up, minus it's mowing parts, as a 4hp, 12VDC, electric battery charger/donkey engine surface mount for my boat with a 150-amp surge capacity, and perhaps the self-drive transmission might wind up as a capstan winch for pulling up the rear anchor, or carb/shrimp pots. It is perfect for that job, with a solid cast deck to attach the alternator/capstan to, electric start and a blade/alternator clutch to boot! I have a seviceable Snapper Hi-Vac mower to mow my lawn for the present, and room now to store the rider I've always wanted for my 4500-square foot lawn, so this Honda HR-214 may yet live to be the envy of the Rivr as a Garagineered Project Battery Charger.